Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Last minute framing design changes

Figures I make drastic changes to the framing design JUST as Im cutting and laying down the sill plates

I originally drew the plans for top plates on top of 9' studs with bird mouth cut rafters but recently switched to variably sized full length studs mitered at their end. Here's what that looks like:

Im no expert of course, but this seems like it would pose no problem; certainly not traditional though.
I could use a second set of eyes on the project so if anyone has an opinion about this design change, please let me know!

I'm also toying with the idea of using Simpson HH4 header hangers to eliminate the need for jack studs but Im not certain if this is feasible or worth it.


  1. I don't think eliminating the notches will cause problems, but I'm a big fan of Simpson ties. I'm assuming you're going to use plywood to keep the walls rigid, right?

    I'm a little concerned that you show only one top plate - the roof is not large, but it still is weight on the front and back walls, seems like you'll need at least a double top plate.

  2. Thanks for the reply Dmitri!
    It will be sheathed with 5/8" ply, yep
    I consulted some people on this plan and I was advised to make a beveled top plate for the high wall and a level top plate for the low. Apparently if you don't notch the rafter on the high wall it preserves all of the rafters strength (full board width). Will still be using those fancy schmancy Simpson ties though

    I'm using a single top plate because all of my studs and rafters are on the same 16" spacing and fall on top of each other. If my rafters fell in the middle between two studs then the top plate would become load bearing and a double top plate would be necessary to bridge the span between studs to transfer the load to the ground.